El Celler de Can Roca: A Pilgrim’s Tale from Catalonia’s Culinary Sanctuary
You might have been wondering for long, what could that one restaurant be that you must try while travelling to Europe? Or you could be a gourmand like me who loves to read about food no matter what. Either way, this piece is meant for all the hopeless food romantics and culinary cognoscenti alike.
Setting out for El Celler might feel daunting at the outset, perhaps even intimidating, as it stands not just as a restaurant, but as a global institution of culinary excellence. Created in 1986, this is the gastronomic haven of the three Roca brothers – Joan, Josep and Jordi – in their enchanting hometown of Girona, Spain. The restaurant artfully melds traditional Catalan cuisine with contemporary innovation. Their journey to excellence is marked by milestones: their first Michelin star in 1995, the second in 2002, and finally, the coveted third Michelin star in 2009, placing them in the rarified company of restaurants like Noma in Copenhagen.
Securing Your Place At The Coveted Michelin 3-Star Epicurean Temple
So here’s the truth about securing a table at El Celler. Is it challenging? Absolutely. Impossible? Not at all. Online reservations open a year in advance for each month, with slots vanishing within minutes. Timing is everything and precision is paramount – keep a close watch, be vigilant, act swiftly, and you may find yourself making travel plans sooner than you think.
Where Gothic Meets Gastronomy
Girona sits a convenient 40-minute train ride from Barcelona, or about 4 hours from Madrid. This medieval Spanish town, immortalised in Game of Thrones, is a photographer’s paradise with its breathtaking historic architecture. In recent times it has gained significant acceptance and fame among cycling enthusiasts, with high-end bicycle shops dotting its narrow cobblestone streets.
Finding Repose In Ancient Stones
The town offers a wealth of accommodation options, from gorgeous 300-year-old hotels to charming home stays available through various platforms, each offering a unique glimpse into local life.
Moments Of Wonder
For the true gourmand, “The Feast” menu is non-negotiable – at €295 per person, it offers a deep immersion into the full experience, complemented by Josep Roca’s masterfully curated wine pairing for an additional €150. What unfolds is a masterful progression of 32 courses, each so precisely portioned that you’ll find yourself eagerly anticipating the next dish until the very end. The presentation is nothing short of theatrical. Take the new three-sided consommé, introduced in 2024, where each brother’s profile appears in a custom cup as distinct consommés are poured after each sip. The iconic olive tree bonsai dish, first served in 2008, remains a playful highlight, where you pluck anchovy-caramelised olives from an actual bonsai.
A standout memory is their pickled mussels: imagine the silkiest potato, coriander, and “tari” purée, studded with warming Ibarra chili pepper seeds, then elevated with vinegar jelly and bright lemon zest. The meal reaches its crescendo with Chef Jordi’s desserts, each demonstrating why he was crowned the world’s best pastry chef. His masterpiece from 2024 that exemplifies his artistry, is the flower bloom – a blown candy sphere that, when cracked, reveals fresh edible flowers in full bloom, nestled with rose confiture, apricot and rose sorbet, all finished with an ethereal soursop and roses foam.
What’s remarkable is the kitchen’s versatility – they seamlessly accommodated a vegetarian menu alongside their regular offerings with minimal notice. The pacing of the three-hour service is masterful, allowing ample time to savour and reflect on each course. The staff, sharp in their navy blue bespoke uniforms, bring both deep knowledge and genuine enthusiasm to their roles. As one server shared, “It’s always a new, exciting and fun-filled day working here.”
I was privileged to tour their immaculate kitchen – the engine room where some of the world’s finest dishes come to life. Their commitment to excellence extends to their nightly ritual: a thorough wall-to-wall cleaning to maintain the highest standards of hygiene.
Reflections On A Catalan Masterpiece
The El Celler de Can Roca experience is more than just a meal. It’s a once-in-a-lifetime pilgrimage that lingers in memory, leaving you yearning for your return. The cuisine is a testament to extraordinary technique, honouring local ingredients and flavours, all elevated by warm, genuine hospitality. But beyond the artistry on the plate, you leave with something greater – a deeper appreciation for tradition and innovation, for storytelling through flavour, and for the emotional power of food. In the end, it’s not just about what you taste, but what you learn, feel, and carry with you long after the last bite.
The author visited the Michelin Guide 3 Star restaurant in the summer of 2024.
