Penhaligon's Hammam Bouquet EDT Review. The fragrance that found me twice

When and how we discover fragrances is as unpredictable as the weather in London. You set out from Grosvenor Square in your breathable early-morning walking attire, comprising a layer or two, and by the time you reach the edge of Hyde Park overlooking Marble Arch, you notice a few fresh raindrops glistening on your dark gabardine trench coat, which still carries traces of the fragrance you wore on last evening's date.

A scent that follows your journey

What is somewhat more predictable is how these fragrances live and breathe within the fortified lofty castles of our memories. During my time in Istanbul, Türkiye, one of the most memorable fragrances was the scent of the hammams, traditional bath houses dating back to 300 years or more. I wanted to capture that essence and somehow selfishly tried hard to keep it with me and bring it back home. I guess most startling fragrances we come across while walking in a new European city, an old Asian forest, a busy Middle Eastern airport or a laid back Nordic coffee shop can't be bottled in an instance. We lose them in the fleeting moment, only longing to meet them again.

Turkish bath house in a bottle 

Little did I know that my wish of capturing the memories of a hammam in a bottle would be granted one day during an afternoon walk a few thousand miles away from Istanbul, in the historic city of Rome, or, as Italians endearingly call it, Roma.

About a year back I had discovered Penhaligon's, the luxury British fragrance house that received its first Royal Warrant in 1903 bestowed by Queen Alexandra, for being an official supplier of fragrances to the British Royal Household. A discovery set of 10 selected fragrances, 2 ml each, was my first introduction to the brand's collection of eclectic potions.

The story of Penhaligon's birth is equally fascinating as its legacy. The brand was founded by William Henry Penhaligon, a Cornish barber who set up his own grooming salon in London in the 1860s after being inspired by the aromatic fumes of the neighbouring Turkish baths on Jermyn Street. In 1872 he launched the brand's first and now iconic fragrance named Hammam Bouquet.

A hundred and fifty three years later here I was in Roma, Italy, taking a leisurely afternoon stroll along the river Tiber, appreciating the gentle flow of the water and the stunning architecture of the 1,800-year-old Castel Sant'Angelo on the other side of the bank. Although my maps app persistently tried to take me to the brand-new Penhaligon's store on Via Vittoria, 58, I remained stubbornly non-compliant with its instructions. I guess taking the longer route is always more wholesome, especially on a sunny afternoon when the mercury sits at a mild 19°C. A long, somewhat narrow, cobblestoned street led to the store, which had been open for just 16 weeks, the gentleman in his sharply tailored black suit operating the store mentioned.

Penhaligon's store in Roma 

With all the classic and brand-new fragrance bottles lined up neatly, I felt like a child in a toy store. Some fragrances were familiar, but my browsing came to a halt when I read the name "Hammam Bouquet." Could this be real or just another fancy name? Then again, why would Penhaligon's tease me like this? The store associate could see the curiosity and disbelief in my eyes, and he said, "Do you want to give it a try?" Even before he pulled out a fragrance test strip, I asked him if this was exactly what I thought it was. 

"Hammam Bouquet is the first fragrance Penhaligon's had created in 1872," the gentleman remarked in his soothing voice.

The slow unwind

A few sprays later, I didn't know if I was in Rome or Istanbul. The first whiff exuded a vintage charm, covered with an amber-woody touch emanating from the top notes of bergamot and lavender. It nudged the senses quite differently in terms of where in history this fragrance sits and what time period it takes us back to. A crisp, clean heart note of Turkish rose took me back to a royal bathhouse somewhere in Istanbul, clad in heat-radiating white marble that instantly softens the mind and body for the exfoliation treatment. Instead of just sitting on the warm skin, Hammam Bouquet has a cleansing effect that slowly eases the mind and slows life down a bit, allowing one to appreciate the moment.

As the day progressed and I continued my walk along the streets of Roma, the generous applications of this potion I had put on my wrist and neck lingered into dusk. It was still there with me as I made it back to my apartment, unfolding its base notes of sandalwood and shy amber.